708 Port Street

Not only does this  Canton four-bedroom, three-and-a-half-bathroom townhouse have bamboo and concrete floors, an open floor plan that’s Zen times ten, and modern styling throughout its three stories, but it also has one of the best terraces we’ve ever seen. Huge, with views looking over downtown and the harbor, a built-in shower and grill and a wet bar just inside, this terrace is perfect for hosting parties, lounging in the afternoon sunshine or just being outside. So, so nice. And did we mention the two-story waterfall? We didn’t? How’d that slip our minds? Curious. Priced at $1,175,000.

3901 Saint Paul Street

This seven-bedroom, four-bathroom brick Colonial in Guilford recently underwent a million dollar renovation and it shows. The rooms are uniformly large and comfortable; the kitchen is beautiful with dark wood and new countertops; the fireplaces are surrounded by granite; the back patio is stone and open; the library is warm, inviting and perfect for reading… we could go on. Maybe our favorite part of the house is the sunroom, with its floor to ceiling Palladian windows, its expansive view of the half acre lot, its space. Priced at $1,680,000.

16 East Mount Vernon Place

Just across the street from the Peabody Institute and the Walters Museum is this four-bedroom, six-and-a-half-bathroom Mount Vernon rowhouse. Embassy-esque in its outward appearance, you might actually feel like a diplomat when you enter as well. And why wouldn’t you. with luxuries like a butler’s pantry, a sauna, a steam shower, and some truly enormous walk-in closets? All of those things may be afterthoughts, as the rooms are plenty large enough for entertaining and the décor is understated, but lovely. Carriage house in back also available. Priced at $1,800,000.

904 N. Calvert St. #1
The realtors are calling this two-bedroom, two-bathroom condo “oversized,” and we think we’ll have to agree.  We don’t know how else to describe the two-stories of high ceilings and spacious rooms.   But beyond being large, it’s also a lovely place, one with detailed moldings, pocket doors, a remodeled kitchen and oodles and oodles of charm.  Priced at $299,900, and qualifies for a 10-year historic tax credit.

1113 Hunter Street
This two-bedroom, two-bathroom townhome loft feels a little like the setting of a modern play.  The type where yuppies come to terms with things over yoga mats and angrily-flung glasses of wine.  Not that that’s you, potential buyer.  No, you’re probably more interested in the whirlpool tub, the exposed brick walls, and the double-sided fireplace.  And maybe a little interested in the fantastically well-equipped kitchen too – the two ovens, commercial six-burner stove, butler pantry, and subzero refrigerator would make cooking easy.  Priced at $299,900, on short sale.

906 Tyson Street
This three-bedroom, two-bathroom property is a rarity at its price in Mount Vernon: an actual house.  Created by a renovation of two adjacent rowhomes, this double-wide offers two family rooms, new appliances, and a charming, tree-lined street on which to live.  And if that doesn’t sound pleasant enough, there’s a private courtyard in the back for those little moments when you want to escape the city into a space of your own.  Priced at $319,000.

photo by flickr user nickhall

Welcome to that magical time of year when the noun ‘holiday’ can be used as an adjective to modify any event, product, or activity, regardless of its relevance to any historical or current holy day. It may not feel much like December––so much as an interminable pre-dawn shower with no hot water when the power’s out––but I’ll help get you into a holiday mood (see?) with a few timely recommendations:

1.    Christ Lutheran Church in the Inner Harbor (701 S. Charles Street) continues its Bach concert series with a performance on Sunday, December 6 at 4:00 p.m. The piece of the day will be the Second Cantata from the Christmas Oratorio. The show is free. Besides, you look like you could use a little culture.

2.    The Central Branch of the Enoch Pratt Free Library in Mount Vernon (400 Cathedral Street) is holding a massive used book sale this weekend from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. on Friday and Saturday and 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. on Sunday. Hardbacks go for a fifty cents. That should give you some notion of the pricing. CDs and DVDs will also be sold. It is harder to think of an easier way to support a better cause in the next seventy-two hours. I’m going with this one.

3.    Miracle on 34th Street is, in addition to being the title of a celebrated and somewhat stale Christmas movie, a stubborn Hampden tradition. The residents of the strip of 34th street that runs from Chesnut Avenue to Keswick Road have for the past sixty-odd years celebrated the coming of the Messiah with massive and garish displays of electrical might in their front yards. Think of the most excessive, parodic arrangement of Christmas lights you’ve ever encountered. Now imagine a laser pointer fired at the surface of the sun. That’s basically the difference between what you’re imagining and what this is. It is tasteless; it may even be sacrilegious. But it’s definitely worth the trip. The spectacle runs through December 31.

In what preliminary holiday rituals will you participate this week?

The Baltimore Free School in Mt. Vernon (1323 N. Calvert Street) was started by those lovable anarchists at Red Emma’s, who seem to believe that education should be a “grassroots, volunteer-run and community-funded project.” In other words, an education for the people, by the people. What total commies. (We kid.) Classes, though, are varied in scope and topic; everything from “Introduction to Music Theory” to “Man, The Universe, and an End to Poverty: Why and How Natural Law Fixes Everything” to something called simply “Clown.” Stop by and learn something.

The Village Learning Place in South Charles Village (2521 Saint Paul Street), a nonprofit neighborhood library, learning center, computer lab, and community garden, formed in 1997 after the Pratt Library closed their Charles Village branch. Neighborhood residents banded together, restoring the building with volunteer hours and reopening it to fill the community’s need for accessible resources of all kinds. Awesome. Now, the VLP offers a wide range of events and programs; for example the Village U adult enrichment program or the upcoming Holiday Artisan Market.

Of course, where would any intellectual city be without a free public library? The Enoch Pratt Free Library is, as every good library should be, replete with good books and a wide array of community events. With 23 branch locations throughout the city there’s almost certainly one close to you, no matter where you are. And if you’re definition of “borrowing” gets a little stretched from time to time, there’s always the Book Thing to keep you ankle deep in words.

What piques your intellectual curiosity in Baltimore?

Photo by flickr user Kali Durga

Ghost tourism is an odd, if not paranormal, phenomenon. The tales of the departed that we gobble up when hankering for a healthy shiver tend to be decidedly distant in time and circumstance from those we read about in the daily news. There’s pleasure in in being reminded of the great beyond, so long as it stays comfortably beyond. This intersection of personal loss with public fetish gives me the willies, but since the season is upon us. Here are a few of the places to include in your next homemade Mob Town ghost story:

1. The Westminster Church Burying Grounds in West Baltimore (500 W. Baltimore Street) accommodates the restless spirits of several prominent Baltimoreans, among them the recently re-interred Mr. Poe, though it’s difficult to conceive of any more unfinished business he’s been dying to complete with the help of the sensitive, still-breathing heroine of a young adult novel. More likely he’s already dreading his tricentennial celebration in 2109.

2. Fort McHenry (2400 E. Fort Street) isn’t just the most patriotic place in Baltimore, it’s also one of the grisliest. The site of at least one super-famous battle as well as countless mishaps of the sort that fail to raise eyebrows at any old military fortress/horrible dungeon. In particular, look out for spectral reminders of the fort’s stint as a wartime prison for Confederate soldiers. Say what you will about the boys in grey––they make much better ghosts than those prim, well-nourished Federals.

3. The USS Constellation in the Inner Harbor (Pier 1) has seen over two hundred years of service including several major wars––that is, if you count all three ships that have sailed under that name. At any rate, the newest model is on permanent display now to military historians and spook-hunters alike. Thanks to an ambiguous photograph printed in the Sun in 1955, the Constellation has gained an international reputation as a vessel of the otherworldly.

4. Finally, all of Fell’s Point, which is the oldest and therefore the most haunted neighborhood in Baltimore, can tickle your morbid prurience with the help of the Fells Point Ghost Tours. The same crew now also offers ectoplasmic tours of Mt. Vernon, for those of you not satisfied by one night of calculated squealing. Fridays and Saturdays at 7:00 p.m., departing from Max’s Sidebar (731 S. Broadway). Spookily enough, tickets are $13, and October is to ghost tours what 1:45 a.m. is to bars, so get drinking.

What’s your best best Baltimore ghost story?

Contemporary Mexican cuisine at Azul 17

Not everyone can cook well. Me, for example. My first job was working in a restaurant when I was a teenager, and I hated it. The deep fryers and greasy hamburgers made me nauseated, I constantly burned myself, generally spent my shift sweating and smelling bad, and, after a few weeks of being the living embodiment of the squeaky-voiced teen on “The Simpson’s” I quit, never leaning how to do such things as make a salad or “measure” “ingredients.” So now, in a perverse bit of karma, I eat out too much. Thankfully for my easily bored taste buds, new restaurants are always popping up in Baltimore. Here are three that perhaps you haven’t tried yet.

Turp’s Sports Bar (1317 N. Charles Street, 410-347-0349)

Contrary to popular opinion, Turp’s is not some sleazy way to profit off the University of Maryland while cleverly dodging copyright laws. Nope, it is in fact named after John “Turp” Turpin, the manager. But it’s also a sports bar where one could cheer on the Terps (or the Ravens, O’s or the Blue Jays), so that may be where the confusion comes in. Fare is typical pub food, with a full complement of wings, pizzas, burgers and subs to go along with whatever game you may be watching. Their dessert menu is tempting as well; the Brownie Lasagna looks particularly intriguing. Prices are reasonable: a cheeseburger and fries goes for $8.25.

Zhongshan (323 Park Avenue, 410-223-1882)

Apparently, Baltimore has a Chinatown. Maybe not an official neighborhood, but at least a stretch of restaurants along Park Avenue downtown that comes close enough. Live and learn! In any case, Zhongshan is the newest addition and people are talking about their kicking dim sum and the mild secrecy of the wait staff. Let it be said that no one is complaining about the food or the atmosphere, but just generally wishing that they promoted some of their more authentic, more unusual menu items… like for instance, jellyfish. See, you’re already intrigued. Entrees range from $8.95-$17.95.

Azul 17 (Columbia Market Place, 9400 Snowden River Parkway, Columbia, 410-309-9717)

There’s something fascinating about the contemporary Mexican movement. It’s not just that Mexican food is great; it’s that it can go beyond cheese-laden tamales and into ceviches, guacamoles, and chicken moles. Seriously, that stuff’s amazing. And even though Azul 17 is way out in Columbia, it’s still exciting to see contemporary Mexican cuisine make its presence felt in the Baltimore area. The reviews of the food have been favorable so far, and the Midnight Sun makes the bar sound soooo cool. Prices range from $10-$30.

Any other new Charm City eateries we should know about? Any new favorite haunts?

Poppy and Stella in Fells Point (728 S. Broadway) is a sly little fancy-town boutique where you (you being a lady) will find plenty of inspiration when next you’ve got a wad to burn. These are shoes and bags one wears with the intention of being noticed, not necessarily with practicality or thrift in mind. There is a fairly reliable sale section, but is that really what you came here for?

Homey and indulgent, Ma Petite Shoes in Hampden (832 W. 36th Street) is a combination shoe-and-chocolate store that takes both lines quite seriously. There are in fact some shoes for men, but I feel that I needn’t name the target gender. With a range of prices, brands, and occasional (ask nicely) free tastings, this is a good store to visit with friends, sisters, or even Mom.

When it comes to men’s shoes, Baltimore’s no different than most places in America––you’ve basically got the discount warehouses and the mall brands. There is some good stuff in both. But if you’re feeling snooty and you’ve got money to spend, try Gian Marco Menswear in Mount Vernon (33 S. Charles Street). In addition to their distinctive clothing (suits) and sportswear (not for playing sports), they’ve got a limited but memorable selection of fine Italian shoes. Men’s shoes are in some ways trickier than women’s. You want to stand out, but you don’t want to look like a jackass. Gian Marco gets it right.

Finally, if you’re going to bother buying decent shoes, then you’ve got to take care of them. Make Eugene’s Shoe Repair in Roland Park (516 W. Coldspring Lane) part of your routine every few months––for polishing, heel repair, and resoling. It’s a tiny place, and the staff isn’t particularly sweet-tempered, but they know what they’re doing and they do it on the cheap.

Where’s your favorite place to get shod?

Photo by flickr user elh70.

One of the benefits of living in the city is proximity to a variety of religious traditions. Baltimore, in particular, has a proud history of tolerance, though the Maryland Toleration Act of 1649 only applied to Christians… and even then got nixed by Oliver Cromwell. But! Since then, our religious heritage has been plentiful and heterogeneous. In fact, there are far too many places of worship and religious study even to give a representative sampling, but here is a very small selection of the city’s spiritual loci:

1. Old Otterbein United Methodist Church in the Inner Harbor (112 W. Conway Street), built in 1785, is the oldest church building in Baltimore. It’s also the origin of the United Brethen in Christ. Worship services are Sundays at 11:00 a.m.

2. The Basilica of the National Shrine of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Mount Vernon (409 Cathedral Street) is the oldest Catholic Cathedral in America. It may also have the longest name in America. Originally built between 1806 and 1821, the Basilica was recently restored and, whatever your religious inclinations, is a breathtaking example of the architectural mastery of Henry Latrobe. Mass is celebrated there twice or more daily.

3. The Lloyd Street Synagogue in the Inner Harbor (15 Lloyd Street), built in 1845 and renovated in 1876, is the oldest synagogue in Maryland. Now in the possession of the Jewish Museum of Maryland, the synagogue, which over the years has also housed Catholic and Eastern Orthodox congregations, is open for tours at 1:00 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. Sundays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays. (Hours may be restricted this summer due to construction.)

4. The B’nai Israel Synagogue, also in the Inner Harbor (27 Lloyd Street), was built in 1876 and is the oldest Orthodox synagogue in continuous use in Baltimore. B’nai Israel is also owned by the Jewish Museum, though it has services Fridays after sundown and at additional times throughout the weekend.

5. The Masjid ul Haqq Downtown (514 Islamic Way) is the oldest place of worship for Muslims in Baltimore. Originally called Temple No. 6 and operated by the Nation of Islam, the space was renamed and rededicated shortly after the death of Elijah Muhammad. The Masjid is now operated by Sunni Orthodox Muslims and is open for Salat five times daily.

6. There are dozens of Hindu, Buddhist, Pantheist, and Theist meetings, gatherings, and social events in Baltimore––far too many to mention, so I’ll just add this last note for those of you who take your timor mortis black: the Baltimore Secular Humanists don’t have a static location, but they do meet regularly. Their next meeting will be at noon on July 12 at the Orient Restaurant in Towson (319 York Road). They will be discussing an interview with Greg Epstein, Humanist Chaplain of Harvard University.

Where do you go to get right with whatever you get right with?

Photo of Latino Fest 2008 by flickr user spike55151.

This week there are lots of ways to feel marginally more cultured. So pause the brand-name portable music playing device and step out into the bright, scary day. First things first:

1. LatinoFest in Patterson Park (corner of Eastern and Linwood Avenues), this Saturday, June 27 from noon to 10:00 p.m. and Sunday, June 28 from noon to 9:00 p.m., is only $5 a head and provides a stellar opportunity to merengue, seduce a mariachi player, and gorge yourself on excellent spicy food. Kids get in free.

2. Insubordination Fest takes over Sonar Downtown (407 E. Saratoga Street) Friday, June 26, starting at 4:00 p.m. and Saturday, June 27, starting at 1:00 p.m. This is the fourth year of the aggressively authentic pop-punk festival, so for those of you who have totally sold out since the early ‘90s, this is your chance to throw on a Black Flag t-shirt and pump your middle-aged fists to the Dead Milkmen, Pansy Division, Boris the Sprinkler, Steinways, and numerous other bands––new and old-school. Admission is $25 a day. Just toss it on a credit card, narc.

3. The modestly named “A Sculpture Show” at C. Grimaldis Gallery in Mount Vernon (523 N. Charles Street) closes after Saturday, June 27, so see it while you can. This collection of art is largely made up of small, sometimes seemingly miniature pieces by celebrated sculptors. It’s the perfect way to spend the hour between waking up with tinnitus and eating the day’s first chalupa: in silence. Featured artists include Richard Serra, Annette Sauermann, John Van Alstine, Chul-Hyun Ahn, Jon Isherwood, Jane Manus, John Ruppert,  and Costas Varotsos.

Where will you be getting your dose of culture this week?

Photo by flickr user r.s.m.b. Sees.

The New York Times ran a piece recently about a peculiar fad among bars––across the country, but especially in the city that never stops talking about itself. The theory is that the ultra-posh and grimetown-hip alike prefer to buy their overpriced swill in dives nobody knows about. Which is hard, because if you know about it, then it’s already not the place you want to be drinking. At any rate, a quick run-down of Baltimore’s Prohibition-evoking offerings yields few options:

1. The Owl Bar in Mount Vernon (1 E. Chase St.). Deal with it, New York: this place actually was a speakeasy––hence the owl’s glowing eyes, which once let patrons know when delicious, forbidden booze was being served. The bar, located on the ground floor of the historic Belvedere Grand Condominium, is surprisingly laid back despite being in one of the few buildings in Baltimore where you should probably be wearing a tie.

2. The Rendezvous Lounge in South Charles Village (136 W. 25th St.) isn’t exactly unmarked, but then it’s still pretty easy to miss. We’ve mentioned it before, and if you’re looking for somewhere less… hygienic than the Owl Bar, this is it.

3. Speakeasy Saloon in Canton (2840 O’Donnell St.) makes the list by sheer self-selection. Well done, guys. This place is perfect if you feel like eating crab cakes and mugging for pictures by the sign at the entrance.

Other than these fine establishments, Baltimore doesn’t have much in the way of meticulously-hidden-yet-beloved-drinking-houses-with-surprisingly-decadent-interiors. And why not? Because our bars are real bars, full of people working hard and drinking harder. All in earnest. If the thrill you’re looking for is the illicit acquisition of alcohol, then go to any warehouse party/concert/underground performance and buy a bottle from the guy sitting behind the cardboard sign. Or go refill a growler, since that’s apparently illegal, too. More to the point, why not enjoy having a favorite neighborhood bar that actually feels like a neighborhood bar? B-more’s full of them, and you don’t need a password because the waitress already knows what you’re going to order. In this regard, Baltimore City is its own speakeasy––ripe with local slang, unspoken rules, and a cliquish but self-parodying social set. Let New Yorkers play make-believe. I got this little place you’re gonna love.

What’s your favorite drinking hole?