Urban Discoveries Baltimore

This is the first in our new series of neighborhood profiles, where we give you an insider’s view of some of Baltimore’s best neighborhoods. Want to tell the world about your neck of the woods? Shoot us an email and maybe you’ll see your own tips in this space in future weeks…

South Charles Village/Old Goucher

When I was first preparing to move to Baltimore for grad school, a few old-school Charles Village types clutched my arm and told me not to live below 27th Street. Good thing I’m counter-suggestible. After several safe, surprising years living in South Charles Village, I’m thrilled to present my stomping grounds as Urban Discoveries’ first neighborhood profile.

First, some geographical pickiness: According to the LiveBaltimore website, Charles Village proper stretches south to 22nd Street; the Old Goucher Community Association claims 20th to 27th Street, from Guilford to Howard. But  I’m just using these designations loosely.

What sets the neighborhood apart?

I know that the word “diversity” has been so overused that it almost doesn’t mean anything anymore; still, it’s the first word that comes to mind when I try to characterize what makes South Charles Village special. It’s most immediately apparent in the food:  the neighborhood encompasses Baltimore’s small-but-thriving Koreatown, but there’s also plenty of soul food, Indian food, a halal market, a vegan/raw Carribbean spot… Plus, at last count there were 70 registered non-profits just in the 35-block Old Goucher area. That speaks to a neighborhood that’s working to make Baltimore better.

What kind of homes are there?

Rowhomes, mostly, with a few Charles Village–style painted ladies in the more northerly reaches of the neighborhood.

What would you show an out of town visitor?

For historical flavor, we’d stop by Lovely Lane Methodist Church (2200 St. Paul Street); the lovely brick building was designed by Stanford White in 1884, and also houses the Methodist Historical Society archives. We’d continue the “old things” theme by browsing the antiquarian bookstores on Baltimore’s book block (25th Street between Charles Street and Maryland Avenue), primarily the Kelmscott Bookshop and Royal Books. If we felt like more shopping, we’d browse the stores along the 2400 blocks of Charles and St. Paul, named by CityPaper in 2008 as Baltimore’s “best kept shopping secret.” Or maybe, if I wanted to establish my street cred, I’d show off some of the places where The Wire has filmed. (SPOILER ALERT:  Remember when Scott Templeton uses a payphone for his fake serial killer call in Season 5? It’s the payphone by the ugly mural in the 2100 block of Charles Street!)

Food?

Nearby dining doesn’t trade much on atmosphere or ambiance; the emphasis instead is on the food (and keeping prices low). First of all there are the kajillion small spots open for breakfast and lunch, Monday through Saturday. A few of my favorite places to get a cheap egg-and-cheese sandwich and coffee in a styrofoam cup: Rita’s Place (2324 N. Charles Street); Wyman Park Restaurant (138 W. 25th Street); Sunflower Deli (2436 N. Charles Street). Newcomer Terra Cafe (101 E. 25th Street) is slightly pricier, but has won my allegiance for being open for dinner AND on Sundays; plus, it’s pretty. And, of course, those Korean restaurants — I stubbornly prefer Nam Kang (2126 N. Maryland Avenue), though my Korean friends tell me that Joung Kak (18 W. 20th Street) is better. Soul food? Try M & J’s (102 E. 25th Street). Carribbean-inspired vegan food? The Yabba Pot (2433 St. Paul Street) is great, though they keep raising their prices. Cheap Indian food? Indian Tandoor Restaurant (2101 N. Charles Street) has the cheapest lunch buffet we’ve seen around town.

Nightlife?

While South Charles Village isn’t big for bars, there are a few options for nighttime revelry in the neighborhood. The major player, of course, is the Ottobar (2549 N. Howard Street), which hosts both local and touring bands, as well as frequent dance nights. If you’d rather be the star of the show, Nam Kang (see above) is open til 4 a.m. and has karaoke rooms for your enjoyment. There’s always also the Rendezvous Lounge (136 W. 25th Street), the diviest of dive bars. I’ve never actually been in — everyone’s always telling me I shouldn’t go in alone, and then refusing to go in with me — but some people swear by it, and the drinks are notoriously cheap.

Is it good for kids?

The neighborhood seems better suited for young people who want to live cheaply in a stimulating urban environment. I’ve never felt particularly unsafe, but it’s not necessarily the place I’d want to raise my kids.

How’s parking/transportation access?

It’s a bit of a trek to the nearest light rail station (North Avenue stop), but Charles Street buses can get you easily up to Towson or down to the Inner Harbor. Mostly, I walk everywhere — it’s a brisk 15 minutes to Penn Station, Hampden, the Charles Theater; less than that to Charles Village proper.

Closest grocery stores?

Safeway (2401 N. Charles Street)

Save-a-Lot (2008 Maryland Avenue)

Plus the aforementioned small ethnic markets, which are great for cheap spices and bulk rice.

Coming soon?

The Miller’s Court development on the northwest corner of Howard and 26th Street is slated to open this summer. The 90,000 square foot building will host office space for many Baltimore non-profits, as well as affordable loft-style housing for new Baltimore City teachers in a LEED Gold-certified building. The developers call it an “education lab”; I’m excited to see the influx of fresh energy brought to the neighborhood. (Look for an in-depth Urban Discoveries feature on Miller’s Court later in the month!)

Still needs improvement?

On a somewhat petty level, I’d be happy if more restaurants stayed open past 3 p.m., or if there were a few more options for Sunday brunch. (Right now, Terra Cafe is your best bet.) And while I’ve never personally felt threatened, the neighborhood certainly isn’t the safest in the city. And, of course, there’s the perpetual Baltimore complaint — better public transportation would really improve quality of life!

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